These are THE Momofuku pork buns, the pork buns, Momofuku, David Chang’s restaurant in New York, is famous for. – Or rather the German milk roll short-cut to the fabulous pork belly sandwich with crunchy quick-pickled cucumbers, plummy (no plums in there) Hoisin sauce & Sriracha-heat to bring it all together (even if you cannot abide hot sauces, do not leave out). As I said, this is a short-cut version, which means buying the buns (lucky if you can find the authentic Chinese steamed buns) or, if far away from such luxuries: substitute German Milchbrötchen (= milk rolls: soft & slightly sweet small buns, which are not as rich as brioche, but are quite similar to the steamed buns and equally contain milk powder). For the real experience you should make the original steamed buns a weekend project & produce industrial quantities, which is fun & very rewarding: The recipe works really well, they keep excellent in the freezer – great for future bun cravings. If your freezer is chock-a-block-full like ours or on the small side – these soft German rolls are great stand-ins. Continue reading →
If the phrase Lightning never strikes twice only would be true, then we might be safe for all eternity (unfortunately, that’s a myth). A few things got fried: phone & router & AirPort & the likes and it took a while to replace them as well as to get everything back up and running. But… I actually found being cut off quite a soothing state of (temporary) splendid isolation. Which brings me to this:
You can say about Gwyneth Paltrow’s cooking what you like but better try this dressing first: once you modify it and substitute a fresh goat yoghurt for the vegan mayonnaise, it is fabulous. A Mexican riff on the Green Goddess dressing takes the creamy (mayonnaise) green herb salad sauce to a bright & fresh Spa version, which is not only highly addictive, but even more beneficial than the original, it might need a CA zip code. Good bacteria (yoghurt) are all the rage…again & the green zingy freshness (lime! coriander! Spring onions!) a true Californian, if you ask me and I can’t get enough of it. Continue reading →
Das deutsche Rezept für diesen Blaubeerenkranz ist natürlich unten.
It’s blueberry season (yippee) and we are lucky to live close to a blueberry farm where we I pick up large baskets every Saturday to last us through the week – impossible to have breakfast without them! Flush with an abundance of blueberries as the result of overzealous berry shopping – Is there really a better way then have them in a cake? Continue reading →
Pan bagnat is by far the best picnic food, beach or summer outing sandwich EVER. Once tried, you will not get enough of it (might as well join the pan bagnat appreciation & defense society right now). Originating from the South of France, Nice to be precise, this filled bread shares a lot of ingredients with the eponymous & equally iconic Salade Niçoise – like everything else: the amount & preciousness of the filling used to depend on your affluence. Like other recipes Pan bagnat started out as a way of using old bread: refreshing hard & stale bread with an invigorating bath (pan bagnat is literally ‘bathed bread’).
Other than steeping bread in liquid as in Pappa al pomodoro the outside of the whole loaf is sprinkled with a little water, juicy tomatoes and other garden vegetables (what is not abundantly in season at the Côte d’Azur??) moisten the inside of the bread. Being mainly a vegetable or vegetarian sandwich with small black olives, basil, green peppers, little onions (cébettes), fava beans, cucumbers etc. either anchovies or tuna are added, never both at the same time. Having tuna & egg together, pure luxury. Just a tiny drizzle of olive oil, no vinegar, no salad leaves. Continue reading →
If you think dhal is only a lentil curry, you should have one immediately, preferably this Sambhar (or Sambar), a fragrant, rich & savoury stew originating from Southern India and the Tamil cuisine which could be described as an Indian spiced pease pudding. We loved this recipe so much (even my meat-centric husband will admit in front of witnesses how much he liked this) that it will have regular appearances in the James’s kitchen. Not to mention, that I bought a massive Indian cookbook (aptly named The only book on Indian food you’ll ever need) to try out more Sambhar variations.
The ingredients are temptingly exotic: curry leaves, fresh grated coconut, fenugreek seeds, tamarind, Asafoetida (shopping for those is already fun) and though the multiple steps may seem a little daunting at first, it is relatively straightforward. For those who try to minimize washing-up, the Sambhar will loose a few points in this department but it is totally worth it. There are layers of flavours & textures: creamy & smooth with a little bite combined with fragrant spices, the subtle sourness of tamarind and a hint of sweetness. Some Sambhar recipes add a selection of vegetables to the stew, I prefer them on the side (incidently, a good way to use up leftover veg) & serve it with basmati rice or naan bread.
The North-American Lake Whitefish (Coregonus clupeaformis aka the Whitefish in Whitefish salad) is not available here and frankly, not everything has to be shipped around the world when there are perfectly fine relatives (still) frolicking in European waters: Renken, Märanen, Felchen are all of the genus Coregonus. Unfortunately this argument will remain solely academic if you are not able to find any of them at a fishmonger (restaurants mostly serve them fresh and not smoked).
Anyway, there are many other delicious white fish around and a myriad of them are availiable smoked for something approximating the classic Whitefish salad. Russ & Daughter’s seriously delectable version includes kippered salmon (I am a fan since I had my first taste of their whitefish salad) but in the present case I prefer to stay with just one variety, especially when it is such an appealing one as the wonderfully cream-fleshed & yellow smoked halibut. Not just being a mere substitute, it makes a refined & subtle, smoky & buttery tasting spread on its own.
Brunch or lunch. An egg frittata makes a superb lunch or light supper – together with a crisp salad of bitter leaves and a few slices of bread. It is the Italian cousin of a Spanish omelette minus the potatoes. The classic combination of mint & peas is especially nice for spring and summer dish. Add some baby spinach for extra greenness and another flavour component and finish with the crumbled ricotta salata. Feta would make a fitting substitute if you can’t get the firm salted ricotta.
In comparison to the mighty Spanish omelette, a frittata rather veers toward a thinner pancake-type of omelette, which in this case furthermore underlines its lightness & fresh character; plus, it cooks much faster than a tortilla. Adjust the cooking times to your chosen skillet size and the intended level of doneness.
As it does not really matter at what temperature you eat this (it is great hot, warm or at room temperature), a frittata is a great brunch dish that can be prepared in advance.