Pistachio gelato

IMG_6444

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the matter of ice cream flavours I am not, never have been a strawberry-vanilla-chocolate kind of person but a faithful pistachio lover. Ever since the day I could make my own gelato choice from the sleek, shiny case behind the espresso machine and food elevator at the end of the central bar in the restaurant. The prospect of the delicious after-dinner treat made me forget my toddler timidity and march alone through the dining room to choose amongst the flavours (classic Italian gelato varieties and special ones like Stracciatella and Pistacchio– we are talking 1970s!) and always choosing the one. Continue reading

Mascarpone ice cream

IMG_5671

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Somehow I ended up with a (giant) tub of beautiful white Mascarpone in the fridge and no idea what to do with it. It was there as a back up plan (aka raspberry tiramisu) in case the dessert intended for a big dinner would fail terribly – it didn’t and I needed a new plan for a rather large amount. Mascarpone is a fresh triple-crème cheese in fact, basically thickened cream, and cream is really, really good in ice cream – ICE CREAM! There were fragrant strawberries in the house, so are a few bottles of sweet woodruff syrup and they were just begging for a classic egg custard ice cream with an extra jolt of cream Continue reading

Sweet woodruff syrup – Waldmeistersirup & Maibowle

IMG_5647

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is near impossible imagining Germany in May without Waldmeister, sweet woodruff. The faint vanilla-sweet smelling herb infuses the traditional Maibowle (may wine punch), imparts its astounding fresh aroma onto vivid green coloured jelly, ice creams and green gummy bears. Waldmeister syrup mixes with sparkling water for a herby-sweet spring lemonade and flavours a refreshing Berliner Weisse (beer). But drizzle it onto a perfect ball (or two) of mascarpone ice cream, add the best strawberries and you might as well find yourself in paintings by Watteau or Boucher: Continue reading

Black sesame ice cream

IMG_4592

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Black ice cream for Halloween! Schwarzes Eis zu Halloween (dt. Rezept unten)!

Last summer I had the most marvellous inky-black sesame ice cream and got hooked: delicately nutty, creamy & sweet with a hint of vanilla pudding (I am guessing cornstarch played a role). Roasted black sesame seeds give this ice a wonderful toasted aroma and deep nutty flavour while the egg custard base provides the creaminess. I used quite a lot of sesame for a concentrated taste and a darker colour, admittedly boosted by a few drops of black food colouring for Halloween. Continue reading

Lemon verbena sorbet

IMG_4032

 

 

 

 

 

 

If life gives you lemon verbena, make sorbet: This is a perfect summer treat, a refreshing citrus sorbet where the emphasis is on the floral lemon verbena while lemon juice & zest provide a citric lift.

Once tried, there might be no going back from lemon verbena. It used to be impossible hard to find though has now reappeared together with other forgotten or neglected heirloom plants, fruits & vegetables that are ‘rediscovered’ daily. The shrub grows easily in a planter on a balcony or terrace and is luckily quite hardy so that ours comes back every spring for this super summer-cooler. Its essential oils are useful as insect repellents, too but I am not sure how many scoops of sorbet are required for that particular benefit. Great justification, if needed.

Continue reading

Caramel & Fleur de Sel

This is the best Salted caramel sauce ever, there is no way describing it in more humble terms. I recommend sealing the lid with a thick layer of wax or a heavy padlock, tasting it pure spoon-by-spoon might be dangerous and have heavy consequences. Eat over ice cream and pudding or drizzled over cake.

Recipe in German, see below = Rezept auf deutsch, siehe unten.

Update: my Salted Caramel is in Guardian


 

Caramel & Fleur de Sel (Salted caramel sauce)
inspired & adapted from Baked. New Frontiers in Baking (changed volumes, weights & ingredients)

1 heaped teaspoon Fleur de Sel
125ml (4.2 fl. oz) cream
200g (7 oz) sugar
60ml (2 fl. oz) water
2 tablespoons Golden syrup
75g (2.6 oz) crème fraîche

Dissolve the Fleur de Sel in the cream over very low heat, making sure the cream does not cook or boil. Put to the side.

Make the caramel by mixing sugar, water and Golden syrup in a pan with a higher side (do not leave any sugar at the side of the pan, if, then remove with a brush) and heating this mixture over high heat for about 5 or more minutes to a dark brown colour (or until you reach 175°C or 340°F). Do not stir while the caramel is browning & do not touch (as a child I stirred my caramel: the plastic spoon melted). Leave to cool for a moment then add the crème fraîche & the salty cream while stirring with a wooden spoon. Take care, the mixture might bubble a bit (therefore the high sided pan). Cool down to room temperature, then store in a jar in the fridge.

Karamell & Fleur de Sel (Salz-Karamellsauce)

1 TL Fleur de Sel
125ml flüssige Sahne
200g Zucker
60ml Wasser
2 EL Golden Syrup (englischer Zuckersirup von Lyle’s)
75g Crème fraîche

Das Fleur de Sel in der Sahne bei geringer Hitze auflösen, die Sahne sollte nicht kochen, dann zur Seite stellen. Für den Karamell den Zucker mit Wasser und dem Golden Syrup mischen (darauf achten, dass kein Zucker am Rand haften bleibt, er kann mit einem Pinsel entfernt werden) und in einem Topf mit einem ausreichend hohen Rand auf großer Flammen für ca. 5 Minuten erhitzen bis die Zuckerlösung dunkelbraun geworden ist (175°C). Bitte nicht umrühren und nicht anfassen (als Kind habe ich den Karamell mit einem Plastiklöffel umgerührt, der ist geschmolzen). Dann von der Flamme nehmen und nach einem kurzen Augenblick die Crème fraîche und die salzige Sahne hineinrühren. Die Mischung kann schnell aufbrodeln, daher der höhere Rand. Abkühlen lassen, in ein Glas mit einem Deckel füllen und im Kühlschrank aufbewahren.

Pedro Ximénez Sherry raisin ice cream

I have been dreaming about this ice cream since I read the recipe in the formidable Diana Henry’s book Crazy Water Pickled Lemons. How can one resist a book by this title, full of wonderful recipes from the Middle East, the Mediterranean and North Africa, brimming with fragrant, exquisite ingredients and flavours?

There are many different sherry styles around and with rediscovery of the Spanish cuisines comes a renewed appreciation of the fortified wine, pairing the different styles of sherry with different dishes, cooking with other than “cooking sherry”. If you like to find out more, I thought the short introduction to the different styles and brands of sherry in Sam & Sam Clark’s Moro. The Cookbook very helpful and it provides a lot of sherry-based recipes, too.

This ice cream is made with the sweet, raisiny, almost treacly Pedro Ximénez sherry where the name giving sun-dried grapes add complex brown sugar notes. Raisins have soaked it up and both are mixed into a custard base for a really luscious ice cream that stays soft because of the small amount of alcohol. This ice cream might be called a relative of the Malaga ice cream of distant days (after all these years still my Mum’s favourite variety; mine will be forever Pistacchio but that is a entirely different story). A close relative but a more gutsy one: the Daphne Guinness or Isabella Blow to your shy second cousin. Pedro Ximénez anyone?

Pedro Ximénez sherry raisin ice cream
adapted from Diana Henry’s Crazy Water Pickled Lemons
makes 0.7l  ice cream (with a little testing…) = 3 cups

85g (a heaped ½ cup or 3 oz) raisins
120ml (½ cup or 4fl oz) Pedro Ximénez sherry
420ml (1¾ cups or 14fl oz) of milk
1 vanilla pod
5 egg yolks
100g (½ cup or 3¼ oz) caster sugar
300ml (1¼ cups or 10fl oz) cream (single or whipping cream)

Previous day: Measure the raisins in a jar with a lid and pour over the Pedro Ximénez sherry. Close the lid and keep until needed. Could be made several days or weeks in advance but I would hide it to prevent excessive “tasting”.

Pour the milk into a saucepan, split the vanilla pod and scrape with the back of a knife blade the seeds out and add both seeds and pod to the milk. Heat the milk until it is just about to boil, take of the hob and leave to infuse for at least ½ hour or until needed.

Make the custard in a bain-marie: Beat the egg yolks with the sugar in a bowl to a pale yellow cream and add the reheated vanilla milk while constant stirring with a wooden spoon. Move the bowl over a pan with hot water, careful not to have the water touch the bowl. Gently heat the mixture and keep stirring until the custard has thickened slightly and is covering the back of the spoon. Leave it to cool.

Add the sherry raisins and liquid to the custard and fold in the (lightly whipped says the recipe, I just added it in its liquid form) cream. Keep in the fridge to cool down further and churn in your chosen ice-cream maker (mine is an Italian Gaggia). Pour the soft ice cream into a container and keep in the freezer to ripen and firm up a little more. Since it contains a little alcohol the ice cream does not become totally hard in the freezer, so it can be scooped out immediately – a bonus if for a party.